Widows in red - a textile perspective

tinoo thumbnail
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Posted: 11 years ago
#1
Many widows dress in red.
In Karnataka, Brahmin widows wear red saris for the last three four generations atleast. My neigbhours aunt is a widow who lives with them and she wears red sari everyday.
In addition, a few years ago I read an article on the tiger widows of sunderbans ... an entire village full of widows because the tigers come and attack and eat the men who work in the fields etc. All the widows in accompanying photographs were dressed in red saris. Bright red.
I asked a friend who is a Professor of textile design and she said she didn't know... and this was her speculation ...because to study this would be a big case study in anthropological history... but her speculation is that different communities in India began different colour coding symbols for their rituals based on natural plant dyes available to them in ancient times.
i.e. in Gujarat and Kutch particularly, the colour of widows is very dark blue... this is because of the abundance of the indigo plant that is found... it provides a natural dark blue dye. But these plants are the "good" indigo plants. But in other areas of India, even though Indigo plant grows, it is of a harmful variety, so people in those regions did not use dark blue in their colour schemes because the dye was poisonous. They adopted other colours which were natural dyes available from plants growing in their regions.
It is quite possible that the regions of jaitser might have been rich with some vegetation or berry plants that provided red/maroon plant dyes and were adapted into the colour schemes of those regions of Rajasthan. Other areas of India used to have lots of wooded areas where the bark of trees gave dark brown dyes, and those areas would have adopted dark brown into their colour schemes.
Over time, even though mass production mechanisms started coming into place and and chemical dyes also came into being... the old rituals did not change ...so inspite of there being a wide variety of colours available to all regions today, the symbolism of the colour codes from the past has not changed.
Also, only rich widows and elderly widows wear white.
Younger widows and poor widows all wear bright dark solid colours because white gets dirty easily and they did not have the werewithal to keep washing them again and again like rich people do or to have several white saris. Also younger widows were made to sleep on mud floors so saris etc. would get dirty ... so it only made sense to have deep dark saris. White saris for elderly widows because they would sleep on a bed.
This is of course speculation, but to me, it made sense as a potential explanation.

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tinoo thumbnail
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Posted: 11 years ago
#2
Another possible explanation is that the singhs are rajputs... and there was a strong tradition of sati in rajasthan, where upon the husband's death, wives too were pushed into the funeral pyre and burnt alive.
At the time, the wife used to be dressed as a bride in bright red (since ostensibly she was still a bride accompanying her husband to heaven)... but no jewellery because the greedy relatives would keep all her gold etc. for themselves before burning her. 😡 Her jewellery would not go to heaven with her.
It is possible that nowadays even though there are no sati traditions, the colour of the sari may have remained the same because rituals don't change. There may never have been a tradition of white sari at all for widows to begin with...
SPuja thumbnail
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Posted: 11 years ago
#3
"It is quite possible that the regions of jaitser might have been rich with some vegetation or berry plants that provided red/maroon plant dyes and were adapted into the colour schemes of those regions of Rajasthan. "
This explanation could be considered if all the widows were shown in red/pink. However, in the serial, this is the first time a widow wore red. So far the widows were restricted to indigo blue or dull brown (camel) colours. Phooli, Sugna, Asha none of them was in red/pink colour after they became widow.

The explanation in first post is thought provoking, though how availability of a dye is related to the colours of widows' clothes is not understood. Why not associate it with colours of clothes of all people in the region?

Perhaps the colour white for widows is common in north India (though nobody sticks to this colour now) - like the Bengali widows of Vrindawan are dressed in all white.
tinoo thumbnail
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Posted: 11 years ago
#4
@spuja - could gehna's red/pink be explained by the fact that she is an elderly woman with kids -- maybe the color coding is different for these kinds of widows.
BTW - I don't think the pink was symbolic of widowhood - I think gehna did it to defy tradition.
Also, how to explain dadisa's colourful outfits even though she is a widow? She wears all sorts of beautiful dresses - and her head shawls all have beautiful trim borders. She was definitely more stylish than asha and phooli and suguna. 😆😆
tinoo thumbnail
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Posted: 11 years ago
#5

Originally posted by: SPuja


The explanation in first post is thought provoking, though how availability of a dye is related to the colours of widows' clothes is not understood. Why not associate it with colours of clothes of all people in the region?

Maybe it is associated with colours of clothes of all people in the region. I only focused on differences in widows because the issue was of why red and why not white?
That being said - I think the dye may be red but the type of cloth widows wear is different - like bridal saris may be red silk - and widow saris may be terry cotton.
BTW, in Karnataka in Konkani community - Manglorean - dark purple is the colour for brides. Not red. So why is that ? I don't know the symbolism.
SPuja thumbnail
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Posted: 11 years ago
#6

Originally posted by: tinoo

@spuja - could gehna's red/pink be explained by the fact that she is an elderly woman with kids -- maybe the color coding is different for these kinds of widows.

BTW - I don't think the pink was symbolic of widowhood - I think gehna did it to defy tradition.
Also, how to explain dadisa's colourful outfits even though she is a widow? She wears all sorts of beautiful dresses - and her head shawls all have beautiful trim borders. She was definitely more stylish than asha and phooli and suguna. 😆😆


@bold - that is what I thought -in other thread - I wrote creatives went overboard, because Gahna is still in too much grief to think of defying tradition, so I thought it is creative's way of handling the issue and people went after it that her way of dressing was more important than the colour.

Regarding dadisa's outfits - perhaps she also wore plain clothes earlier (during her escape from Mahavir Singh, it appeared that she wore plain clothes, though I do not remember clearly). Her present clothes perhaps denote her present status - she defines rules of the Jaitsar now, so no rule applies on her 😆.
SPuja thumbnail
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Posted: 11 years ago
#7

Originally posted by: tinoo

Maybe it is associated with colours of clothes of all people in the region. I only focused on differences in widows because the issue was of why red and why not white?

That being said - I think the dye may be red but the type of cloth widows wear is different - like bridal saris may be red silk - and widow saris may be terry cotton.
BTW, in Karnataka in Konkani community - Manglorean - dark purple is the colour for brides. Not red. So why is that ? I don't know the symbolism.


@bold - the issue was not about white because in the serial, widows did not wear white. It cannot be about clothes in general, because then, there will be no difference between clothes of women in general and the widows. What I have seen so far is - the society tends to make rules for widows so that they look different from others - be is shaving the head or wearing white etc. I did not know about traditions of Rajasthan but in the film "Dor" also it was deep indigo for widows and then initially same colours in the serial. Sugna and Asha were different, but red and pink for the first time. Also the red Gahna wore was of some coarse texture, but the pink dress was as fine as Ganga and Anandi's clothes. That is why I think that it was deliberate attempt from creatives.
tinoo thumbnail
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Posted: 11 years ago
#8
Maybe dadisa picked out the color for gehna. After all, she made a promise to basant that everything would remain the same after he died, and then there was the nandu and the bindi incident. Maybe this wasn't gehna s idea to wear a pink sari. But she just wore whatever dadisa gave her in obedience. So it was dadisa s statement actually ...not gehna s statement 😆
SPuja thumbnail
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Posted: 11 years ago
#9
Gahna lost her rebellious nature long ago. For quite some time she is there to complete her quota of smiles and tears. May be now she will be given something worthwhile.
tinoo thumbnail
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Posted: 11 years ago
#10
I don't think gehna lost her rebellious nature. I just think that eventually she lost the need to rebel because dadisa and basant changed. Gehna was never the kind of person to constantly challenge social practices etc. like anandi nor did she ever dream of instigating large scale changes in society. She never wanted to study or have a career either.
Her goals for her life were largely personal. She wanted dadisa and basant to treat her with love and respect. Eventually that happened. She had an interest in music. Eventually basant encouraged her singing classes and love for music . Then she wanted a girl child whim dadisa and basant too would love and nit reject because she was a girl. That too happened and it was pretty easy and happened without her needing to rebel. The last time she took a stand, it was against jagya when he walked in with gauri after marriage. Now anandi s life too iis happy.
Nd while basant encouraged her involvement in the business, that wasn't something that she wanted really except for the fact that she was happy he acknowledged her talent
So for her, that's it. She accomplished her life goals per se and there is nothing to rebel against because nobody is imposing anything on her or making her feel suffocated. So why rebel?

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