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The Weave[edit]

Patola saris from Patan are renowned for their colorful diversity and geometrical style. To create a patola sari, both the warp and weft threads are tie-dyed according to the desired pattern on the final woven fabric. (In traditional ikat, only the warp or the weft is dyed.) The bundles of thread are strategically knotted before being dyed; where the bundles are tied, the thread resists the color. The weaving is done on traditional hand looms, and vegetable dyes are traditionally used. In Gujurati people say, "Patola will slash, but color will not lighten."

Royal history[edit]

Patola has a royal history. Silk weavers of the salvi caste from the states of Karnataka and Maharashtra chose Gujarat as the home for their renowned patola fabric. It is believed that salvis went to Gujurat in the 12th century with the intention of acquiring the patronage of the Solanki Rajputs, who ruled all of Gujarat and parts of Malva and south Rajasthan at the time, with Anahiwad Patan as the capital. Legend says that over seven hundred patola weavers came to the palace of Raja Kumarapala. At that time the ruler used to dress in patola silk himself on special occasions. After the decline of the Solanki empire, the salvis founded a rich trade in Gujarat. Patola saris quickly became a sign of social status among Gujarati women and girls, especially as part of stridhan, items that a woman can claim as her own property within a marital household.

Design and pattern[edit]

Women's dresses are very attractive and full of colors and geometrical patterns. The soft fabric is not block-printed. Its weaving and tie method results in identical patterns on both sides of the cloth. It involves complicated calculations, the base of the sari is totally stood on geometrical creations. The process of making of the sari starts with dyeing the wrap and the weft yarns according to the planned pattern of the final cloth. Silk yarn is used, and patola saris are hand-woven. The procedure is not only costly, but also time-consuming. The market for patola saris is very limited.

There are four distinct patterns which are woven primarily in Gujarat by the salvi community. In Jain and Hindu communities, double ikatsaris with entire designs of parrots, flowers, elephants, and dancing figures are generally used. In Muslim communities saris with geometric designs and flower patterns are typical, and worn mostly for weddings and other occasions. Maharashtrian Brahmins wear saris woven with plain, dark colored borders and body, and a bird design called Nari Kunj.