Salim Shahis
It can be said that the present day khussa' alternately known as mojari' or jutti' has evolved from its predecessor that was worn centuries ago. At first they were simple shoes made of wood, possibly an influence of china. However they were not comfortable or feasible to wear in the cold weather. Later, as leather was easily available, people began making shoes from it. It was initially worn by the common man. Then during the 17th century, it was the Mughal King Jahangir who introduced the embellished version. Such a khussa was made of the best leather embedded with real gems, and embroidered beautifully with threads of real gold and silver. That is how it got its name Saleem Shahi', which was the nickname of Jahangir. It soon became associated with Nawabs, rajas and others. Later on, when synthetic thread was used it became more affordable and was worn by all classes. Some specimen's are on display in the Lahore Museum.
Generally, khussas have always been made by the local cobbler in the villages, and used by both men and women. There is no difference between the right and left foot. Also, there are no exact sizes. On average, a craftsman could prepare five shoes per month. So the landlords would place an order for their entire family and pay the cobbler through barter system in terms of wheat, rice etc at time of harvest, while the villagers would simply pay cash.
How They are Made
The outstanding feature is that they are completely made by the hand, i.e. the cutting, embroidery and stitching. The process of making a khussa includes vegetable tanning, curing of leather, cutting & sewing the insole, outsole, sole and vamp. The upper part and sole are joined together by paste and then stitched by hand using white cotton threads.
Earlier Types of Khussas
Khussas would be typified based on the specific leather that was used in making it or a distinctive design made at a specific place. For instance the ones made from goat skin were known as Saleem Shahi.
Men's Khussas
The distinguishing feature of men's khussas is that they have a sharp extended tip called a nok' curved upwards, the back covers the ankle and usually the upper part is M-shaped, and half the top of foot is bare. These are usually worn on occasions. While the others commonly referred to as juttis which are worn casually, have a flat front and a rounded upper part and lesser part of the foot is uncovered.
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