Bwood Diva : Madhuri Dixit - A new beginning - Page 104

Film: Dedh Ishqiya 

How would an aging coquette reigning over a surreal town nestled between nawabi nazakat and modern malice dress? When Payal Saluja, the costume designer of Dedh Ishqiya was first introduced to Begum Para -- Madhuri Dixit's character in the film--the dichotomy intrigued and flummoxed her. 

She spent the next three months trawling the lanes of Lucknow, Mahmudabad and Delhi for the answer and now it was director Abhishek Chaubey's turn to be puzzled. 

Who wouldn't be, when confronted with monikers like Toriphula and Zehermora. For the uninitiated, these are the old names for colours popularly known as yellow and teal and for a director who jokes that men, like animals, only see black and white, they proved a mouthful. 

"Abhishek is not easy to please and the clothes had to reflect the Begum, who is haughty, bashful and a tease at the same time. So it was definitely a challenge" says Payal. 

So, we have Madhuri wearing a chikan anarkali in shades of champagne and gold in a romantic scene while her wedding outfit, which is also the costliest ensemble in the wardrobe, is a mix of green, beige and red to signify an unconventional bride. 

Instead of the fishtail silhouette of the ghararas (pleated and gathered at the knees) which is a favourite with filmi Begums, Madhuri sports the more authentic farshi shararas (a voluminous lehenga with a middle part) in the film. Then there is the jhoomar which is the begum's constant companion and the necklace which plays a significant part in the plot, all crafted by the jewellers of Old Delhi. 

Madhuri's last remembered turn as Chandramukhi, the lovelorn courtesan of Devdas, came more than a decade ago. But Chandramukhi and Begum Para seem to have similar sartorial tastes. 

"You will see a totally different Madhuri, actually you will not see Madhuri, just Begum," says Payal, brushing off the observation. And how much did the exquisite wardrobe cost? 

Though Payal refuses to talk numbers, she is all praise for the generous makers and their deep pockets. After all, the Dhak Dhak girl's return should be 'priceless'!

@MadhuriDixit